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Glimpses of Pittsburgh

PITTSBURGH, PA (February 8, 2008) – This is a gem of a city.

A four-day sales conference kept me inside half the time, but I was able to see parts of this well-known, but well-kept secret.

First, it appears to be a great place to raise kids. I heard from many of my BNY Mellon colleagues about the area’s low crime, higher education, and cultural significance. Many of them moved here or moved back specifically for that reason.

Second, if you’re a retiree or near retiree — who isn’t drawn to the heat of the desert West and the sunny South — this might be a place to examine. A number of downtown developments are building upscale condos and lofts. The area hopes to thwart the recent exodus of young residents; ironically, it may result in attracting older, active folks back.

First, here’s my bias. Some of the top executives of my firm wined and dined me, so, at times, I had vistas from the fortieth floor of the BNY Mellon building and rich-wooded walls while at lunch at the exclusive Duquesne Club; not the most middle class perch. Plus, I don’t have kids. I’m just “another boring romantic, that’s me,” to quote Mellencamp.

And Mellencamp’s “Small Town” kept repeating in my head after hearing it on a local radio station — along with Mozart’s Fortieth Symphony, closest to the perfect piece of music, which filled a terminal at the Pittsburgh Airport. They’re good musical book-ends for Pittsburgh. It’s a big city with a cold steely façade and upper crust culture, yet it’s navigable by foot and the folks have that Midwestern acceptance.

There’s plenty of culture with the Carnegie-Mellon Museum, The Warhol Museum, Carnegie Mellon University, University of Pittsburgh, Duquesne University, and the various cultural offerings of theater and art.

I viewed the Mellon exhibit of British water colors at the Carnegie-Mellon Museum. It was fantastic. In fact, BNY Mellon is trying to get the exhibit to make a stop in Las Vegas.

My Aunt Peggy, a nearby resident of Pittsburgh and a water color artist herself, joined me. Needless to say, her insights into the craft of water color artistry were helpful. Examining the strokes of some of these geniuses up close and personal was a thrill.

Later, we viewed some of the Impressionists at the gallery. I still get chills at Monet’s Water Lilies.

There were plenty of works depicting the late 1800s and the early 1900s in Pittsburgh when this was “Steel City.” The night time was punctuated with giant flares of fire from the steel plants.

That past gives the city’s skyline and architecture its cold feel. Pittsburgh from a distance today reminds me of the words Ayn Rand painted with to show her vision New York in Atlas Shrugged. But up close you see some of the great architectural designs in history. These edifices, some being transformed for modern living, are a glimpse back into the benefits of the Industrial Revolution.

But to make that steely cold assumption about the town, and in many ways it is still a town, would be wrong. The Mellencamp side is the congenial air of the city and its folks. These are Midwest folks.

For example, the food was trendy but hearty in most spots. Try the restaurant Nine on Nine, an upscale but unpretentious place. We had a nice filet mignon with a lobster perogies, a local version of a potato dumpling. The Bigelow Grill in the Double Tree Hotel, where I stayed, had some trendy presentations, too. They even attempted an entrée of wild boar; it was a bit tough for me and slightly over-cooked. Still, I enjoyed their effort.

The Double Tree was a great choice for a business trip. I love old hotels, but not necessarily to stay in. The Double tree was modern with the amenities I want: air conditioning so I can breathe at night; and a good gym. In this case, the gym was the Downtown Athletic Club right in the hotel — at no charge.

Breakfast at the Omni William Penn was a treat. The elegance of the Terrace Room and its food made for an enjoyable meal and good conversation. The down-home cheddar and ham omelet was perfect.

The Union Grill on Craig Street, near the Carnegie-Mellon Museum, had that Midwestern comfort food. This is a place you bring the kids for a meal or your good buddies for a beer. Peggy had the Devonshire, a local, classic dish with turkey on toast, a tomato on top all smothered in a cheese sauce.

The Union Grill, a short walk from the museum, is also the place where folks talk about the Steelers and Big Ben trying to overtake the Patriots and the hopes that the signing of the Pirates’ slick hitting Second baseman might mean a new era in local, baseball history. Frankly, if they found a new Roberto Clemente to watch I’d be putting a plucking down a down payment on a city loft right now.

Until that happens, I’ll be recommending Pittsburgh to my good friend Virginia Martino, the President of the Odyssey Lifestyle, the food, wine, and arts wine experience in Las Vegas that benefits the Odyssey Foundation. Virginia has envisioned treks to various cities for four-day events. Pittsburgh would be a good choice.

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